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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Zurrantee-Dooars

In summer, life progresses at a glacial pace in the city. Every movement is a test of endurance. So, when an opportunity of spending a weekend in the hills came up suddenly, we grabbed it with both hands. Indranil was in London. He reached home at 8.00 pm and we were out by 9.00 pm. We were the first in our group of 15 to reach Sealdah, the second bigest railway station in Kolkata.

Our destination this year was Zurrantee. It is one of the largest and oldest tea-estates in the Dooars. We had rented the former residence of the owner, now converted into a hotel, for three days. The bunglow is strategically placed on the highest point in the plantation, to command an extensive view of the whole plantation. On one end, you will see the hills merging into the greenish grey mist surrounding them.






On the other, the land stretches into the horizon. You can see the silver strip of a river winding it's way in and out of thick vegetation. You can stare at the landscape all day long and still discover new things every minute. It took a while for my eyes to get adjusted to such great expanse.


 The bungalow itself is a sprawling structure spread over a large area, with 5 rooms, along with a sitting room, dinning hall and a billiards room. The rooms are huge, each big enough to accomodate 5 adults. The grounds are carefully maintained, with sloping lawns surrounding the bunglow on three sides and a mango garden on the fourth. It also has two badminton courts. All of these bears sign of loving care and careful grooming.

Zurrantee
Zurrantee                                                      Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee
The dinning hall and the sitting room were our favorite haunts. Jomati Adda over countless cups followed by an exhausting session of badminton - wish I could spend all my evenings like this.

On the second day, we explored the nearby jungles and rivers. The Himalayan foothills don't capture my imagination like the snowy peaks, but it has it's own charm. Here the roads are closed on both sides by towering trees. Although we could see deep into the forest from the roadside, we were unable to see anything other than peacock. But a streak of blue in the green shadows is a treat for the eyes.

River                                                                                                                                     Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee
The rivers here set their own pace. When among rocks, she strikes up a threatening stance. But in the plains, the mood is calm and peacefull.  We selected one such rocky bank for our picnic. The sun made it comfortable to wade into the water. The huge boulders on the river-bed, worn out by centuries of erosion, made perfect seats, with the cold water swirling past our submerged feet. It is hundred-fold more relaxing than anything we can find in the cities.The little ones needed little encouragement to jump into the shallow pools. Fortunately we all had brought a change of clothes with us.

In the evening, the local tribals performed for us. Young girls traditionally dressed in white sari matched their steps to the drum beating in a timeless rhythm. Each had decorated themselves with beautiful flowers. Sometime later we joined in and started dancing with the girls. It was a memorable evening.
 
The next day was spent in similar fashion, exploring the surrounding countryside and simply doing nothing (As Daddy Pig would have said, It was a perfect day for doing nothing). The day after we made an early start. We were headed for Jhalong, which lies on the border between West Bengal and Bhutan. Here the Jaldhaka river forms a natural border between the two neighbouring countries. The trip took us longer than we thought. However the result was beautiful. Here the mountains rise suddenly, forming a dome-like structure, which seem to be covered in mist all the time. We spent some time in the bank of the river, near the millitary barrack that guards the bridge over river Jaldhaka, that connects Bhutan and India. The only problem we faced here was the lack of public toilets. We were desperate enough to ask the locals if they would allow the women to use the facilities inside their houses. They flatly refused, saying they do not have any facilities inside. Finally a hotel owner helped us. It is sad how such beautiful tourist lack the basic facilities. This is something a huge number of tourist spots in India have in common.

The ride back was uneventful, save the race against the clock. We entered the station with just 10 mins to spare. In that little time, we had to arrange for dinner. However, we managed it and settled down for a long night ahead.

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