Kaluk, Rinchengpong and Pelling

I am six months pregnant and impatient for a trip to the mountains. I realised it will be another year before I will be able to travel again. Indra too had some leaves coming up. Overriding all the objections raised by family and friends we planned ahead for our trip. Both of our parents decided to join us, just to make sure we don't overdo it.

Our destination was around five hours drive from N.J.P. We took the Padatik express and reached N.J.P around 9:00 am. It was Holy that day. Jalpaiguri was washed with colors. Soon we left the city streets behind us and entered the world of forests.The familiar sight of the Teesta river washed away all our fatigue. We stopped a little after Sevoke at a roadside restaurant for lunch. This restaurant is situated along the steep bank of Teesta. It is a beautiful spot and a convenient stop, as the only restaurant for the next couple of hour or so. After lunch we started on a very uncomfortable drive.

The road conditions were horrendous. Even in the front seat, I was very uncomfortable, with my tiny baby bump rolling back and forth with every porthole in the road. We did not expect the roads to be this bad. The driver said that after winter, the roads have been like this. However, the scenery made up for the road conditions. Far down in the valley, we could see the narrow blue strip of river Rangit flowing through the golden paddy fields. Soon the view would hide behind a seemingly impenetrable walls of the forests. The road was a tapestry of uneven patches of sun and shadow.

Soon we were in Rinchengpong, the small village before Kaluk. Kaluk is essentially a collection of three resorts, and a few shops and a taxi-stand that had developed around them. The narrow lane that leads to the resorts is more like a slide in the playground. It flows like a waterfall following the easiest route downward. According to my father-in-law, we don't need jails in the plains if we had places like this. We could just shove the prisoners down this lane and they will never be able to climb back.




Our Suite                                          Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

After the long drive it was a relief to get settled in our rooms. We were given a beautiful suite, complete with a small kitchenette, a sitting room and a bedroom with on-suite. The  There is a small balcony leading from the bedroom, from where you could get an uninterrupted view of the mountains beyond. Tea was served in beautiful tea-cups, depicting Tibetan tales. The setting sun was casting long shadows in the mountains all around us. The birds were busy doing some last minute collection before they settled for the night.



Kaluk                                                          Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

Our resort, the Ghonday Village Resort, is nestled in a quiet niche between two mountains, with a 270 degrees view. The mountain just in front of us is home to the city of Pelling. As night closed in, small lights appeared on the mountainside, like tiny fireflies lighting up a tree. The evening passed pleasantly as India beat West Indies by a good margin. Soon Indra and my father-in-law started their old dispute over which one is a better team (my father-in-law is a staunch supported of the West Indian team). A hot debate over steaming tea and pakoras, surrounded with family, is the best way of spending the evening.




Ghonday Village Resort                                                          Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

The night comes suddenly in the mountains. As the wind picked up, the temperature dropped rapidly, shooing us indoors. I still risked spending sometime in the balcony. The scene before us was magical. Small lights were unevenly sprinkled all over the hill in front of us. Beyond the hill, the night sky seemed to have frozen into a thick veil of clouds, behind which hides the mighty Kanchenjunga. Sometimes the clouds would slip and a faint outline of the peaks would appear. It seemed the mountains were playing pee-a-boo with us.





The Night Sky                                                                                                           Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

Unfortunately, the clouds decided to stay on. We woke before dawn next day to get a good view of the peaks. We only managed a sneak peak. The air was thick with an invisible mist, that blurred our vision. But we did catch the sun kissing snowy tops with its first rays.







Sunrise from Kaluk                                Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

If you see the photograph displayed in the dining area, you will be able to appreciate the view that the lucky ones get. Kaluk offers an extremely good view of the Kanchenjunga range. Although we could not see the whole range altogether, some pockets in the passing clouds allowed us to see the individual mountains.






Mt. Kanchenjunga                                   Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee



Soon the mountains were hidden from our view and we set out in search of food. The resort offers a good choice of breakfast. However, they need to be informed beforehand about our lunch or dinner preferences, because the market is quiet faraway. The rest of the day was taken up by an excursion to Rinchenpong. Indra and my father decided to walk, while the rest of us took the car.






Rinchengpong Monastery                         Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

It is surprising how things that does not tempt us in the city, becomes irresistible in a tourist spot. We were determined to buy something for our family back home. Unfortunately, Rinchengpong is a tiny place with three or four shops. We selected a small shop which sells almost everything you can think of- umbrellas, toys, shoes, food items, cutlery's, clothes, buckets, and much more. We also noticed a bird peacefully building a nest near the roof. Apparently the bird nest only inside houses and enjoys a free reign in the shop.




Bird in the shop                                                                                                         Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee

We were interested in the tea-cups we had seen in the hotel. It was very difficult to find a pair, let alone a whole set. So, we concentrated on matching the colors. As we wrapped our shopping, Indra and my Dad came in view, closely followed by two dogs. They went on to view the Rinchenpong Monastery. But they found it locked and deserted. We returned back to the resort before lunch. It was a rest-day, so we spent the rest of the day watching birds. It would be great if I could identify these beautiful birds. I request the readers to help me identify these birds for me.


 

Birds                                                                                                                             Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee     

 

Day 3
After a day's rest, we were are all geared up for sightseeing. Our primary focus was the Pemayangtse Monastery. One the way we visited a bridge built high on the mountains and a waterfall. The bridge was allright, but the waterfall was a bit of a letdown. I always think that the falls that are selected for tourists are not impressive, mostly because they select to popularize the falls that are near the road. It is definitely more easy than building a road to a much impressive fall. However, we had a very good cup of tea in a newly built tea-shop and had a good chat with the girls minding the shop.

The Pemayangtse monastery is a fine specimen of Tibetan architecture. It is one of the oldest and important monasteries in West Sikkim. Inside, the overhanging tapestries, colorful wall painting and small candles create a magical atmosphere. It is easy to close your eyes and lose yourself in your thoughts, or not think at all. Just let the peace seep in.



Pemayangtse Monastery                                                                                                 Copyright@ 2011 Indranil Banerjee     

The monatery is built on the top of a hill overlooking a large section of the surrounding countryside. The rolling hills, covered in a thick carpet of green, will take your breath away. You can also see the ruins of the old palace, which was our next destination. My parents and Indra went to see the ruins while the rest waited in the car. The steep climb was not advisable in my condition.

We had lunch in the city of Pelling. The city also boasts a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside, it cannot rival the view of the Kanchenjunga range from Kaluk. We congratulated ourselves for the selecting Kaluk. If you wish to spend some quiet time with family, away from the city-crowd, Kaluk is a good choice.