Gangtok-Lachen-Thangu- Lake Gurudongmar

Reaching Gangtok

Our Gangtok tour was planned in leisure. Our main focus was lake Gurudongmar, and the rest of the trip was planned around it. Lake Gurudongmar lies in the northern part of Sikkim, just a few kilometers from the Indo-China border. As it was late April, we also hoped to see the beautiful rhododendron forests of the Yumthang valley.

To visit north Sikkim, it is always easier to go in a package-tour with one of the tour operators. The tour-package includes transport, meals and lodging. Higher up in the mountain it is very difficult to arrange for meals and transport on your own, owing to the remote conditions and high prices. We booked our tour in advance from Kolkata. However, you can get it done from Gangtok as well. The north Sikkim trip usually starts from Gangtok, which is situated in the centre of the state. We planned to spend a day Gangtok, one in Lacheng, two in Lachung and then return to back to Gangtok to spend another night there.

The primary expenditure in this trip was the transportation cost. Due to the road conditions high up in the mountains, we were advised to use a four-wheel drive. If you have a big group, the price per person goes down, provided they all fit in the same car. How ever, it was just me and Indra, so we had to spend around 20,000 per head for this three day trip. However, we were provided with a guide who turned out to be invaluable.

We boarded the Guahati bound Garibrath Express at around 10 pm in the night to start what turned out to be one of the longest and most uncomfortable train journey's of my life. Our last-moment bookings got us the upper and middle- berths on the side of the train, which generally has only two berths. So, in order to fit ourselves in the space provided, we had to curve our body in a small semi-circle, with the tips of our legs and head sticking out. We were scheduled to reach NJP by 6:00 am. But as it turned out, at 6:00am next day we were stuck in a hartaal in a station called Samsi. We were told that almost all the trains on this route were stuck, and most of them, like ours, did not have a panty. As the morning progressed, we started to get very hungry. The station's meagre resourse of banana and peanut soon ran out and as the news spread villagers started to bring whatever food they could lay their hands on and started selling them at exhorbitant prices. It seemed soon we will see merry-go-rounds, face-painting and other stalls on the platform. It was nearly noon before the lines cleared. By the time the train reached the next halt we were ready to eat the luggage. Fortunately a dosa-wallah appeared like an angel and saved us all.

We reached NJP at 3.00 am, we still had enough sunlight to reach Gangtok. The New Jalpaiguri station is like any other city in Bengal, full of people and smart houses. But as we left the city behind and entered the evergreen forests, the whole atmosphere changed in a moment. The road looks like a shiny strip of ribbon  circling the green hem of the foothills.

Right after you cross the doars forests you will reach the Himalayan foothills. We started climbing the hills from Sevoke, a small millitary town at on the banks of the Tista river. From there we had the river as our constant companion. As we climbed, the temperature went down and we could finally relax. The green mountains slowly turned into blue haze, and small dots of lights started appearing in the mountain villages, looking like a diyas, carefully places all along the steep slopes.

Today was clearly not our day. Just as the city of Gangtok came in view, we got stuck in a traffic jam.  We were in Ranipool at that time, a big town on the hill next to Gangtok. A major accident and a fallen tree had closed a major artery. In the mountains, a single road-block can bring the whole region into a stand-still. It took us three hours to cross what usually takes only 20 mins. We reached our hotel at 9 and immediately sat down for dinner which the restaurant staff had to kindly kept hot for us. Then it was beddiebyes for us.

Gangtok
Gangtok has many attractions. Its M.G.Marg is the shopping hub. It also has a great restaurant. It is also a great place to hunt for souvenirs. It also has a ropeway booth, which will take you across the mountain over the city. The other places of interest are the orchid show in the nursery and the Rumtek monastery a few miles away.

Reaching Lachen
In the morning we were rewarded by a clear view of the majestic Kanchenjunga. We could only see the great white peak towering over the deep green foothills, but it was enough to make our day. We went out for a walk to watch the city catch the first rays of the sun. The city fell steeply down to disappear along the curve. From what we could see, the city is extremely well planned and neat. Even the minor streets had sidewalks. The streets were lined with all sorts of shops and hotels. Even at the time in the morning, most of the city was awake, preparing for a busy day.

Later that morning our guide Prakash and driver Solong Lachungpa collected us from our hotel. We drove to a market where they loaded huge quantities of food on the car.  We were surprised and a bit daunted to see that they were even loading potatoes, sugar and rice. Indra smilingly observed that it seemed we were heading for the very edge of the civilization. After that, we stopped to get our permits. These permits were arranged by our tour operators.

We started at around 10:00 am and took the north Sikkim highway. The highway is maintained by the Army and is mostly in great condition. However, at some places we could see mountain streams flowig over the road. We stopped at some places like the Seven Sister falls and some other small falls to take some pictures. We had lunch at a small family run restaurant, which served us beautiful rotis and sabji in what turned out to be their drawing room.This house also has wonderful gardens. We found out that the house is owned by a retired botanist, who runs a nursery as well as a restaurant in his house.

The after-lunch drive put us into a fitful daze. Now and then we would wake up see the road, lined with golden fields or small huts, hiding behind the next bend. The villages here are very neat, and often we would cross school kids slowing trekking down or up the mountain to return to their homes. Prakash told us that kids here walk around 4-5 miles to attend schools everyday.

We stopped at Mangan to show our permits. It was almost 5 pm when we reached Chungthang. Chungthang is a small settlement from which the roads to Lachen and Lachung divides. We stopped here for a cup of tea. When we went to pay for some snacks we bought for the road (tea was arranged by Prakash), the lady minding the shop took joined her hands together and took the money in the same way a Buddhisht monk might accept alms. This method of collecting money or any offering is seen throughout the hills.

As we left the city, we could see the snowy peaks were already drenched in the pink hues of the setting sun. The road to Lachen rises fast, with hair-raising hair-pin bends easing the gradient. And while you are climbing, it is very common to jerk to a stop to make way for the vehicles comming down. If the road was scary in the twilight, it became nightmarish after nightfall. The only light we could see, save the occasional glimmer of lanterns comming from roadside huts, was the stars. The only thing we could hear was the water flowing down. We were told the name of the stream was Lachen Cho, where Cho means water. The darkness and the silence all around us was daunting. It seemed to take us forever to reach Lachen.

Dinner was served almost immediately after we reached. While we had dinner, Prakash entertained us with tales of Gurudongmar. He told us how a 70 year old gentleman from Kolkata comes every year to visit the lake. He also warned us about not to do any sudden physical exersion near the lake, as the thin air in the higher altitude takes a heavy toll on the oxygen level of the body. The stopover at Lachen is intented to acclamatize the body to the rarefied atmosphere but it is not enough. He told us how a group of young boys got very excited and started running. One of them fainted immediately and had to be rushed down to a lower altitude immediately. However, he assured us that if we feel unwell, getting back inside the car will help. He told us how the lake healing water solves most health problems and very good for couples who are trying for a baby. He looked at me when he said this. I belive in his eyes, at 28, I must be having difficulties in having a baby. In fact, in higher altitudes, infertily is common problem, and the lake waters are fabled to cure this.

Lake Gurudongmar
We started for lake Gurudongmar around 4:00 in the morning. The road wound in and out of green hills with predictable monotony until we noticed how the trees were becomming sparse. Soon we could see only tufts of grass sticking out of from the frozen earth, where the only source of movement came from the rushing water and Indian millitary. After an hour or so, spotting a blade of grass or a bird became a challenge. And all this time the snow peaks kept coming near. Suddenly we came upon a wide open space stretched between the mountain peaks towering just behind the steep hillside bordering the valley.

Nestled in this abode of Gods is a small town named Thangu. Essentially it is an odd collection of huts that serve as a resting place for the tourists. It is also a routine stop for people bound for the Gurudongmar lake, which helps in acclamatization. In the early morning sun, this place looked magical. Snowy peaks and the almost black earth contrasted sharply to give this place an out of this world look. The people too seemed a product of the earth they serve. The owner of the shop where we were served breakfast had some many lines on his face that it was difficult to distinguish his features. His daughter can be seen standing in front of a huge stove, alternately heating water and butter, which frosted over before it reached our table. Prakash and Solong also had their breakfast, huddled around the fire. The old owner told us that in winter they all move to a lower altitude. In the summer they can only grow potatoes in the barren soil. The primary source of income came from the tourists.

As we chatted, a family of five came in. The youngest member of this family was a six-month old clinging on to her mother's arm. The lady in the shop asked the mother if she intended to take the baby higher up to the lake. An affirmative answer was followed by sharp warning from the former, asking the mother to stay back. The family pushed on nonetheless. We soon followed after getting warm wishes from stall owner and his daughter. Just after we left Thangu, we started following the ri ver upstream over a sea of boulders. After around an hour we stopped again in a millitary shelter. Prakash said this was a measure to gauge the effect of altitude on the visitor. We were advised to move around to see how we were doing. Soon Indra was chatting with a jawan. He told us how desolate this place is in the winter and how the human body can survive only an year in this altitude before they are posted elsewere. What a tough life our Jawans lead to ensure our safety.

We were feeling allright, so we decided to push onwards. Now we were travelling across a huge valley full of boulders. The car hopped from one boulder to another and in this way we moved forward. Solong was unfaced. He continued to chat and laugh and hum the tune blasted from the stereo while negotiating a ground fit for the goats and yaks. This must be how the surface of Mars feels like. After going on for what seemed forever on this ground, we came upon a huge field surrounded by peaks. Prakash said that the lake lies behind the huge rise right in front of us. We sat straight in our seats. This huge field reminded me of the barren plains of Purulia, save the cold and wind. We were told that after midday the army sends all the tourists back as the wind becomes so strong that small boulders start flying.

As we crested the rise, a small clearing came into view, full of tourist vehicles. And right below it was the clear blue waters of the sacred lake. The lake surface stood absolutely still, with the sparkling snowy peaks reflected in its waters. It's beauty is hard to capture in words or picture. You can only store it in your mind, to be remembered on some bleak cloudy day, as I am doing today.

Indra climbed down the banks with Prakash to get some pictures. I stayed put on the bank to soakin the atmosphere. It is an irony that where nature makes her toughest stand, you get to see her greatest beauty. The blue sky can turn black in a moment and the crisp air can chill you to death if you are caught out without shelter. But all this seems impossible heavenly atmosphere, where the peaceful lake shines with divine grace.

Too soon it was time to go. The ticking clock and your choppy breath pulls your steps towards the car. We turn back with a solemn promise of comming back again. On the way back, each one of us, except Solang slept soundly. The altitude take a heavy toll on your resources.