Zurrantee-Dooars

In summer, life progresses at a glacial pace in the city. Every movement is a test of endurance. So, when an opportunity of spending a weekend in the hills came up suddenly, we grabbed it with both hands. Indranil was in London. He reached home at 8.00 pm and we were out by 9.00 pm. We were the first in our group of 15 to reach Sealdah, the second bigest railway station in Kolkata.

Our destination this year was Zurrantee. It is one of the largest and oldest tea-estates in the Dooars. We had rented the former residence of the owner, now converted into a hotel, for three days. The bunglow is strategically placed on the highest point in the plantation, to command an extensive view of the whole plantation. On one end, you will see the hills merging into the greenish grey mist surrounding them.






On the other, the land stretches into the horizon. You can see the silver strip of a river winding it's way in and out of thick vegetation. You can stare at the landscape all day long and still discover new things every minute. It took a while for my eyes to get adjusted to such great expanse.

 The bungalow itself is a sprawling structure spread over a large area, with 5 rooms, along with a sitting room, dinning hall and a billiards room. The rooms are huge, each big enough to accomodate 5 adults. The grounds are carefully maintained, with sloping lawns surrounding the bunglow on three sides and a mango garden on the fourth. It also has two badminton courts. All of these bears sign of loving care and careful grooming.


Zurrantee                                                      Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

The dinning hall and the sitting room were our favorite haunts. Jomati Adda over countless cups followed by an exhausting session of badminton - wish I could spend all my evenings like this.

On the second day, we explored the nearby jungles and rivers. The Himalayan foothills don't capture my imagination like the snowy peaks, but it has it's own charm. Here the roads are closed on both sides by towering trees. Although we could see deep into the forest from the roadside, we were unable to see anything other than peacock. But a streak of blue in the green shadows is a treat for the eyes.


River                                                                                                                                     Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

The rivers here set their own pace. When among rocks, she strikes up a threatening stance. But in the plains, the mood is calm and peacefull.  We selected one such rocky bank for our picnic. The sun made it comfortable to wade into the water. The huge boulders on the river-bed, worn out by centuries of erosion, made perfect seats, with the cold water swirling past our submerged feet. It is hundred-fold more relaxing than anything we can find in the cities.The little ones needed little encouragement to jump into the shallow pools. Fortunately we all had brought a change of clothes with us.

In the evening, the local tribals performed for us. Young girls traditionally dressed in white sari matched their steps to the drum beating in a timeless rhythm. Each had decorated themselves with beautiful flowers. Sometime later we joined in and started dancing with the girls. It was a memorable evening.

 

The next day was spent in similar fashion, exploring the surrounding countryside and simply doing nothing (As Daddy Pig would have said, It was a perfect day for doing nothing). The day after we made an early start. We were headed for Jhalong, which lies on the border between West Bengal and Bhutan. Here the Jaldhaka river forms a natural border between the two neighbouring countries. The trip took us longer than we thought. However the result was beautiful. Here the mountains rise suddenly, forming a dome-like structure, which seem to be covered in mist all the time. We spent some time in the bank of the river, near the millitary barrack that guards the bridge over river Jaldhaka, that connects Bhutan and India. The only problem we faced here was the lack of public toilets. We were desperate enough to ask the locals if they would allow the women to use the facilities inside their houses. They flatly refused, saying they do not have any facilities inside. Finally a hotel owner helped us. It is sad how such beautiful tourist lack the basic facilities. This is something a huge number of tourist spots in India have in common.

The ride back was uneventful, save the race against the clock. We entered the station with just 10 mins to spare. In that little time, we had to arrange for dinner. However, we managed it and settled down for a long night ahead.

Darjeeling

Darjeeling has a special place in our hearts. Every adult has a fond memory of a holiday spent there. For decades it has been the favorite summer holiday destination for Bengalies. It has had it's moments of turmoil and for a small period it slid from it position as the favorite tourist spot. But the moment peace returned to the hills, the summer exodus from the plains resumed its frenzy. In the summer of 2012, we found Darjeeling bustling with activity.

 

I, for my part, did not like the crowded city. Little did I realise that the glory of the city is revealed only when you see it through the clouds rising from the lower valleys. 

 

Darjeeling in Mist                                        Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

Darjeeling is full of history. At every step, you will find traces of its colonial past. Most of the buildings are beautifully arranged on the slopes to take advantage of the best views of the majestic Kanchenjunga. A good number of roads fall in the car-free zones. These are perfect for pedestrians. We were lodged near the Mall. The roads are easily navigable. It was fortunate that we had a buggy with us. So, every evening, we took a walk in the Mall and did loads of shopping.

Darjeeling                                                                                                                            Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee 

In the day, we took a car to see the seven-points. The whole morning was devoted to the zoo. The zoo has a huge collection of  Himalayan birds and big cats. Indra was busy clicking photos, while I was trying hard to focus my infant's attention towards the animals. It seemed we were more excited to see the animals. We saw a snow-leopard and a wild-cat. We also saw a very camera-friendly bear, which was posing gracefully for our cameras.






In the Zoo                                                                                                                         Copyright@ 2102 Indranil Banerjee

 For the first time in our life, we saw the rare Red Panda. These reclusive animals are so shy that they are kept outside the cages.



Red Panda                                                                                                                         Copyright@ 2102 Indranil Banerjee

Ghoom Staion                                           Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

Before lunch we stopped to see the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. We also halted for a photo session in a tea-garden. We had lunch in one small restaurant near the Ghoom Station. As we were digging into delicious chowmein and chilly chicken, the train whizzed passed with tremendous noise. We rushed outside like a couple of children and waved crazily at the astonished passengers. I still wave at passing trains. There is something about trains that brings out the kid in me.


We wished to catch the toy-train from Ghoom Station to come back to Darjeeling. However, the scheduled train was cancelled and we missed the earlier train. We ended up chasing the train to Darjeeling. But this was not before we walked around a sleepy Ghoom station covered in mist. This is the famous Batashia Loop. I can just imagine how it must look in a clear day, with Kanchenjunga shining in the backdrop. If you wish to see or purchase some beautiful photographs of Darjeeling, you can visit the Das studios in Mall. In the gallery, you will see photographs taken over a period of nearly 100 years. You see Darjeeling in all her moods.


The Japanese Temple                                                                                                     Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

We also visited a Japanese temple built near Darjeeling. The imposing white structure was beautiful and well-worth a visit. The surrounding hill-side is a perfect spot for a picnic. You will find many beautiful trees, almost bowed over with the weight of summer blossom, to spread your blanket under.




Summer Blooms                                                                                                                  Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

After a day's travels, it is wonderful to spend the evening in Mall. The huge square is full of shops and cafes. The atmosphere is festive and benches are full of happy families celebrating the end of a eventful day. I believe the Mall is the biggest attraction in Darjeeling. Do not forget to have coffee and muffins in the roof-top restaurants in Mall, while dusk sets in amidst twinkling lights of the city  This is a perfect place Adeiu to the Queen of the hill-stations.


The Mall                                                                                                                              Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

Tajpur - West Bengal

West Bengal has quiet a few beaches, but most of them are very busy. In Oct 2010, we were in search for a secluded beach for a our group of fifteen. Someone suggested Tajpur and it turned out to be ideal. It lies beside Mandarmoni, a very popular beach resort. The seclusion of Tajpur can be attributed to the fact that the beach is separated from the mainland by a stretch of dense vegetation, that hides the beach from view. So, you will not see the ocean from the balcony of your hotel room. Also, you will have to walk quiet a distance to access the beach. This is not a problem if you have a car at your disposal. For these reasons Tajpur is ideal for tourists looking for a weekend away from the crowd.




Our Resort at Tajpur              

We were a group of 15 with the youngest member being 2 and the eldest 72. We reached around midday in our resort, which is a sprawling property of a few acres. Each family was alloted a hut with on suite and own veranda. After a hurried lunch, me and Indra, decided to locate the ocean, which we can hear but cannot see. Our niece decided to come along. We unwisely decided to force our way through the dense jungle that separated the bridge from the mainland. It seemed quite harmless at first, but as we made our way through the dark forest, we noticed that the forest bed was flooded in most places with black, rotting water, and the few dry patches were covered with thorny bushes. We also surprised some wild ducks resting peacefully in the swamps. The next day we found a dog and a cow lying dead in these jungles. Both died of snake bites. These jungles and the surrounding countryside are full of dangerous snakes. They usually keep out of the paths, but in venturing out in the jungle on foot, we ran great risk that day.

After battling for 5 minutes we reached the beach, which was surprisingly red. A closer look revealed small crabs which seemed to cover every single inch of the beach. The beach itself was hard and covered with minute holes. At that time of the day, the ocean was far off. A gentle breeze took away the sting of the sun and we prepared for a long bath. The beach was completely deserted save ourselves and a few fishermen. As the day wore on, six cows added to our number. We could also locate one single shop along the beach, which sells tea, tea-biscuits and an occasional omelet.



At Tajpur

 The western end of the beach was cut off by a small river draining into the ocean. For this reason, in the ocean, there are currents flowing in from three different directions, which makes swimming a bit difficult.  On the other bank of the beach we could see the beach resorts of Mandarmoni. Early next morning we bought some of the fresh fish caught by the fishermen and had them for lunch. We also took a boat-ride on the river. The scorching midday sun made it impossible to spend anytime at the beach, but in the evening, the beach is truly magnificent. A gentle breeze blows from the ocean. The boats just hover in the horizon, forming twinkling crown for the ocean. You could walk for miles without meeting any other soul. Tajpur is a perfect retreat for a peaceful weekend.

 

Chatakpur

Every year we hear the call of the mountains. It's as distinct as the tick-tok of the clock at the middle of the night. It just cannot be ignored. Chatakpur was this year's selection. It is a village situated at the edge of the Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary in Darjeeling. The nearest town is Sonada, which is just 30 kilometers from Darjeeling.

 

As we were travelling with an infant, we took a flight to Bagdogra and then hired a car from the airport. We will be travelling by a different route this year. Instead of Sevoke, we will be entering the mountains through Rohini, a developing tourist spot Rohini lies in the road connecting Siliguri with Kurseong.

 

Reaching Chatakpur  turned out to be quiet an adventure as we lost our way in the jungle. This turned out to be a bonus later on. A ride in the shadowy forest in the middle of the afternoon was simple out of this world. We saw two deer ambling ahead of us, not a care in the world. Alarmed by the approaching car, the jumped off before we could get a snap. We ourselves were pretty alarmed as we pushed deeper into the jungle with the road narrowing down to a path. Luckily for us, the mobile network was still working and a steady stream of instruction issued from the resort caretaker to guide us safety to the main road.  Soon we reached Chatakpur.

 

 

Inside a Forest                                         Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

 Chatakpur is part of the eco-tourism initiative of the forest department to make villages bordering wildlife sanctuaries self-sufficient by encouraging tourism. The forest department has built four bungalows near the forest, which are maintained by the villagers. In return a percentage of the profit goes to the villagers. The village is inhabited by 100 odd inhabitants and fewer life stock. It has a one-room school with three pupil and one teacher. Most of the thing needed by the villagers are grown in the village itself.

 



Chatakpur Cottages                                   Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

 It is easy to see how many have described this place as a dream destination. Surrounded by a wall of trees, it is like a bowl carved out on the face of the mountain. A narrow path leads into the forests and leads you under a rocky cliff. From there the path breaks into numerous footpaths that are used by the villagers while collecting firewood and water.

However, we soon realised that this was not a place to bring a baby. It is not easy to carry a baby with you in the forest. Our parents also had a difficult time trekking up and down the mountain. So, unless you like the total isolation of a forest, this is not a place for you. However, we enjoyed ourselves immensely. The very first evening, as dusk was falling, we saw two rabbits, and a number of jungle fowls ambling about aimlessly in the forest. The forest ground is easy to navigate and visibility is very good, as the overhanging branches of the giant pine rise high above the ground. The only problem is light. The gigantic tress form a green canopy, through which only the tallest light beams reach the forest bed. Still there was enough light to see around us.

After dinner, the night became very silent as the villagers retreated to their mountains and we were left to our own devices. Now we missed TV a lot. However, the mobile network was still available and after the long journey we were totally worn out. We were up before dawn break next morning. The watch point is located at the very top of the hill. The path leads through the village into the higher cultivation ground to the top to the view point which commands an extensive view of the surrounding countryside.





From the Top of the Hill Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

Unfortunately for us, the sky was overcast. This is usually the case in March or April. However, if you come in Autumn, the chances of a good view are good indeed. We consoled ourselves by watching the birds that started to bid-good morning to each other. We saw an eagle fighting with another big bird, who was valiantly trying to protect its young. Oblivious to this scene, a group of tiny yellow birds, with orange bands around their necks, were chirping happily in a nearby bush. In the cultivation land below, we could see three long-tailed birds pecking on the ground. Undoubtedly this is a bird-watchers paradise.



 






Fields in Chatakpur                                  Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee 

The sleepy village itself looked like a picture. Each house has a shed behind it, housing cows or hens.

The village has not water-supply. The women walk down the hill to fetch all the water they need. After water, they make another trip down the mountain to gather firewood. Later that day, Karishma, a village girl, guided us to a small Pokhri beside the village. On the way we spotted a cliff under which the vegetation constituted only of small bushes. This spot later on proved to be a perfect spot to catch the birds.


Bird Seen Under the Cliff                          Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

We had our breakfast, lunch and dinner in the dinning hut adjoining the kitchen. We had full access to the kitchen, where I cooked dal and rice for my little one. The kitchen girls also helped in minding the babe. The food is cooked by families in turn. Most of the materials come from the cultivation lands and are completely organic. However, if you wish to have bread or Maggi, you will have to bring it with you, as the nearest shop is near Sonada. But I can have all the parathas or puri you can give me, so we did not miss bread or any other things that we have every day in the city.



Chatakpur                                                   Copyright@ 2012 Indranil Banerjee

That evening we went for our usual walk inside the jungle. We got a few shots of the birds and on our way back heard someone coughing.  A few steps more, we saw a heard of barking deer disappearing in the forest below. We ran to get a good shot, but the deer were in their element. Perfectly camouflaged, they wasted no time in getting out of our range. We also spotted a few jungle fowls and rabbits in the fast-fading light. Later on we were told that in monsoon, when the cottages are closed, bears are seen roaming near the cottages. Wish we could be there then.

Chatakpur is a easy distance from both Darjeeling and Kurseong. So, it will not be difficult to come again. This time we will come in October, for a clear sky and with a fixed lens camera, for the birds.